I finally visited King Yin Lei earlier today :)
Color and decorative features abound at King Yin Lei
Ornate decoration on the ceiling of one of its rooms
Did you know that there's a swimming pool
within the grounds of King Yin Lei? :O
Pretty much every time I take a bus up to Victoria Gap or Wan Chai Gap (almost invariably for a hike), I make sure to look out for the distinctive mansion known as King Yin Lei. Built in what's known as the Chinese Renaissance style (like St Mary's Church in Causeway Bay) in 1937 and originally given the name Hei Lo, it was designed by a British architect (A. R. Fenton-Rayen) and became one of the first residences in the Mid-Levels to be home to an ethnic Chinese family (with a woman named Li Po Lun as its owner).
In
September 2007, there was much public outcry when it looked like King
Yin Lei was going to be demolished so the land it was on would be
redeveloped. By the Hong Kong government stepped in to prevent this
happening, windows and doors had been smashed, the roof had been
stripped of its glazed tiles and quite a bit of other destruction had
been wreaked on the building. Belatedly declared a monument in July 2008, restoration work on the mansion commenced in September of that year and finally completed in December 2010.
A
few years ago, King Yin Lei began being open to the public -- but only
on a few designated days in the year. A few weeks ago, I finally got a
ticket for one of its Public Open Days
and earlier today, paid my first ever visit to this mansion that's a
prime example of Hong Kong-style "East meets West" architecture.
As
I walked through King Yin Lei's main gate, almost the first thing that
caught my eye was a swimming pool -- which I previously had no idea it
had, since it's not visible from the bus! Also not visible from the bus
was King Yin Lei's subsidiary buildings, including a small pavilion and
a subsidiary building whose ceiling decoration reminded both a friend I
was with and myself of the Long Corridor of Beijing's UNESCO World Heritage-listed Summer Palace.
The
surprises continued after I entered King Yin Lei's main building.
Among the features that stood out as unusual was the modest size of the
master bedroom (especially in the context of the large size of the
mansion as a whole), the one bathroom we got to see having a disarmingly
pink and lavender color scheme, and the antiseptic looking kitchen
being placed on the middle floor of the building rather than the ground
floor, as would seem more normal!
I'd
love to have gotten explanations of what was behind those architectural
decisions -- and whether what we saw conformed to the original interior
arrangement of the mansion. Sadly, although there were designated
docents about, all of the queries -- including how many rooms were on
the upper-most floor of the building that's completely off limits to the
public -- that I and my friends asked got nothing more than "I don't
know" responses. And although there were a number of information panels
in a few of the rooms of the main building and also what was King Yin
Lei's garage, there was much less information about the history of the
mansion and the people who had lived in it than there was about the
restoration work that had been undertaken.
Upon
entering the grounds of King Yin Lei this afternoon, I had been given
an information pamphlet and four souvenir postcards. While I think this
a nice gesture, I really would have welcomed getting more information
about the place, particularly that which would have helped me to better
imagine what life was like there when it was an actual residence.
As
it is, I have to just speculate as to whether the kitchen was located
so close to the master bedroom because a head of one of the families
that lived there had been an invalid for at least some of his or her
years and thus bed-ridden. I'd also like to know the story behind why
there's a religious altar placed on a wall in the garage and another
placed in a prominent in one of the central ground floor rooms of the
mansion -- neither of them being the usual places to find religious
altars in a Hong Kong home. Heck, I wish I knew why the decision was
made to have King Yin Lei built in the Chinese Renaissance rather than a
more conventional Western or Chinese style.
2 comments:
Hi YTSL,
I enjoyed reading this entry. Saving this interesting "Chinese Renaissance" mansion from destruction is an example of the Hong Kong government doing something positive. In a link you provided in this text (IMDB), I read that scenes from a Hollywood movie, Soldier of Fortune (1955), were filmed here...My favorite Hollywood Hong Kong film is The World of Suzie Wong (1960). On the negative side, this film reinforced the stereotype of subservient Asian women. However, it has the best on-location color cinematography of Hong Kong street scenes I've ever seen in a feature film and has true nostalgic value as a visual record of a Hong Kong long past.
Bill
Hi Bill --
I think you'd enjoy visiting King Yin Lei. And yes, I'm glad that the Hong Kong government has saved the mansion. But think about the huge amount of money they could have saved if they had declared it a heritage monument BEFORE it was in real danger of getting torn down! Also, they need to better present it to the public.
With regards to Hollywood movies filmed in Hong Kong: I don't think there's any that I truly like, alas -- and it makes me doubly glad to have seen many Hong Kong movies made by local filmmakers that portray Hong Kong the place in a positive and/or interesting light.
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