Arguably the most famous rock garden in the world
-- at the Zen temple of Ryoanji
Most people literally turn their backs, and pay scant
attention, to this elegant meditation hall (hojo)
located right next to the rock garden!
Peeking into a small building in the temple's grounds,
I spied what may be these beautiful ancestral tablets...
In what can seem like another lifetime, a friend and I decided to vacation at Florida's Walt Disney World. Determined to maximize our time there by not having to spend too much time waiting in long lines and such, I bought a guidebook to that super popular amusement park that gave tips on how to beat the crowds.
One
of the more basic of them was to get there as early as possible -- and
this was something I determined to do on my recent Kyoto vacation (even
though, by nature, I'm most definitely not an early bird type at all).
And boy, did this "strategy" pay dividends when I visited the Ryoanji, one of Kyoto's top attractions and the place that I wanted to be able to appreciate in (relative) silence!
More specifically, when I got to the vicinity of its fabled rock garden,
I found fewer than five other people at the site. Thus it was that I
was able to spend precious time silently appreciating its spartan
aesthetics and ingenious design which makes it so that it's pretty much
impossible (except from the air, I'd guess) to view all 15 of the rocks
in it from any single vantage point. (And, ahem, take photos of the rock
garden sans and with a certain Puppet Ponyo... ;b)
About
15 minutes after I arrived at the rock garden's viewing area, the
tranquility was dramatically broken by the arrival by a group of
teenaged Japanese school students. To be fair, I wouldn't call them
rowdy but they certainly were... enthusiastic and very into counting
aloud the number of rocks they could see from different vantage
sections of the viewing area! And, actually, because I had had those
previous moments of relative silence and solitude in the area, I found
myself observing their antics with some amusement rather than
irritation.
But
when, some 20 minutes afterwards, a larger group of older tourists
entered the area, I decided to take my leave -- and went out to explore
other sections of Ryoanji, including the green area surrounding its
water lily filled Kyoyochi Pond. In the area between the rock garden and Kyoyochi Pond are a couple of interesting structures.
One of them, I was surprised to discover, is a Burmese style pagoda that serves as a memorial to the Japanese soldiers who died in Burma during World War II (and yes, it's true that the sight of it got this film geek thinking of Kon Ichikawa's The Burmese Harp!).
The other more conventionally Japanese looking building had no sign
explaining what it was -- but I got the distinct feeling that it also
has something to do with the deceased. Perhaps it's just that it was so
very quiet in that area, but I ended up not wanting to tarry too long
there!
All
in all though, I spent quite a bit more time at Ryoanji than I expected
to -- not least because its ground are larger and more varied than I
previously had the impression that they would be. But there were a few
more temples to visit on my agenda that day. So after a couple of
satisfying hours at the fourth UNESCO World Heritage listed property I had visited within 24 hours, off I went to see still some more impressive Kyoto sights! ;b
4 comments:
Hi Yvonne,
What a very smart decision to visit early in the morning. And glad the school kids weren't too intrusive. Did you eat at the Yudofuya restaurant there? We didn't and in hindsight I should have....
Hi sarah sbk --
The decision to visit Ryoanji early in the morning definitely paid dividends, I felt. Re Yudofuya: I had aimed to go but when I was in the vicinity, I decided I was feeling too hot to eat any yudofu... and ended up waiting for a few hours to go have a cold soba lunch in the vicinity of Kitano Tenmangu (my third stop that day) instead!
I'm definitely one of those 'must go early' types to anyplaces that potentially have many visitors; tourist spots, shopping malls, food courts, etc. I got distracted easily!
:-)
Hi Horsoon --
Oh, so you go early not so much to beat the crowds as to make sure you have plenty of time at the places? ;b
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