How a Hong Kong Island street looked less than
an hour after I had been tear gassed
The dismaying sight that confronted me on my way home
from dinner in a nearby neighborhood this past Sunday
Like the previous Monday and Tuesday, yesterday and today saw calm return to the streets after a tumultuous Sunday, which began with a peaceful rally outside the British consulate here in Hong Kong and was followed by a peaceful march by tens (if not hundreds) of thousands of protesters calling for the five demands to be met but ended with fights
and arrests in Fortress Hill and North Point, with a barrage of tear
gas also having been fired late at night in the latter neighborhood. And while the big news this morning involved the now much vilified MTR, it's thought far more likely that today's train derailment at Hung Hom station was caused by ageing train tracks rather than sabotaging protesters.
Even
though they occured just two days ago, some of my experiences this past
Sunday now can feel like they took place in a different universe and
were merely a nightmare rather than actual, lived reality that I have
needed some time to recover from. More specifically, that afternoon
found me enjoying a pint of beer and a shared cheese platter
at a favorite pub in Central. So far, so good until it was time for the
friends I was with and I to go our merry way home.
Since
we weren't trusting that the MTR would be a safe transport option on a protest day -- not least because we had received word of the riot police appearing in a number of nearby stations -- and over-ground public transportation were not operating in the
areas where we lived, a friend and I decided to make our way back to our respective residences on foot. While walking past Three Pacific Place, a team of riot
police suddenly emerged from the parking lot behind the office building and
fired tear gas into the street and in our direction. The friend I was with estimated that they were just five
meters away from us at the time -- so yes, we did feel the effects of the tear gas pretty strongly.
While this was not my first tear gas experience of the summer, it certainly was far more intense. Even an encounter with the Tai Hang fire dragon the night before had not prepared me for how much my eyes would sting and water, and certainly not for how much mucus would pretty much immediately stream out of my nose and mouth as a result of a close encounter with that which is supposed to be used for crowd dispersal rather to attack people.
While this was not my first tear gas experience of the summer, it certainly was far more intense. Even an encounter with the Tai Hang fire dragon the night before had not prepared me for how much my eyes would sting and water, and certainly not for how much mucus would pretty much immediately stream out of my nose and mouth as a result of a close encounter with that which is supposed to be used for crowd dispersal rather to attack people.
So
I am really grateful to the helpful stranger who came over and directed
me to a safe area after noticing I was having problems seeing and the
first aider who was near enough to come over to rinse my eyes with water
and saline solution soon after the area was buffeted by tear gas. (As
an aside: it really can be amazing how many
Hong Kongers will extend much kindness and generosity to complete
strangers turned comrade-in-arms or "merely" fellow humans caught up in
the same bad situation.)
After that unpleasant experience, I decided to avoid the major thoroughfares where I figured the riot police would be more likely to be in favor of walking home via the backstreets. This meant my routing would be less direct but I figured it'd be worth it if this meant that I could avoid experiencing further tear-gas buffets.
For the most part, this new strategy did result in a less incident-filled passage home. I still did pass by three groups of riot police -- at least two of whom were being implored by upset area residents to "go away" and such -- along the way though. And upon reaching the home stretch of my journey, I was met with the sight of a disconcertingly large number of police vans lined up at my home MTR station all the way almost to the neighboring MTR station.
As it so happened, my area was one of the major problem areas that night. Coupled with clashes having occured in my neighborhood on Saturday, I get the distinct feeling that my part of Hong Kong is now being perceived as a "no go" zone by many. Ironically, it's one of the increasingly rare urban sections of Hong Kong where tear gas has not been discharged as yet. But in view of how "generous" the police are in their use of that particular weapon at this disposal, I fear that it's just a matter of time before the likes of me will be catching whiffs of this substance which was previously such a rarity in our homes rather than "just" out on the streets in other parts of town. :(
3 comments:
Glad you are OK :)
I'm so sorry that happened to you and glad that someone was there to render aid. There is no justification for that sort of behavior on the part of police against you or anyone else, of course. Take good care.
~Joy
Hi "eliza bennet" --
Thanks -- though, to be honest, I think many of us living in Hong Kong do have some psychological scars from what we've experienced this summer.
Hi Joy --
Thanks for sharing my belief that there's not justification for that sort of behavior on the part of the police; this not least because it really does feel like they've made Hong Kong less safe than it otherwise would be/what we in Hong Kong previously were used to.
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