It may look very Chinese but this cultural site is not in China!
Instead, the Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi is located
in the heart of George Town, Penang, Malaysia! :)
And for the record: There was no Photoshopping of
any of the above pictures... :b
Until
just a few years ago, my mother -- who was born in Penang and has lived
there all of her life -- had never ventured into the grounds of the
Khoo Kongsi. "Why should I?", she asked me. "After all, I'm not a
Khoo!"
Although
I too don't have Khoo as my surname and thus don't have any personal
ties to the Khoo clan, the Khoo Kongsi is one Penang cultural attraction
I honestly think is absolutely worth visiting -- and paying the RM10
(~US$2.32) admission fee to get in. The most elaborately decorated by
far -- and probably largest too -- of Penang's clanhouses
is one of those places you have to see with your own eyes to believe
actually exists as it's so highly ornamented that when I visited the famous shrines at Nikko (which, more than by the way, are on the UNESCO World Heritage List -- like the historic part of George Town),
I found myself disappointed as well as surprised at how much less
extravagantly decorated they were than this less internationally known
cultural site which exists in my home state!
Thus it was that when my German friend
was in Penang, I made sure to include a visit to the Khoo Kongsi when
showing her around town. And while you might think she'd had a fill of
viewing super elaborate architecture after also having visited the likes
of Borobudur and Prambanan
in the preceding days, she genuinely was fascinated by what she saw at
this grand clanhouse that came into being when the Khoos' collective
wealth and social eminence in Penang were at their height.
Work
on this clanhouse took place between 1902 and 1906 to replace a
reportedly larger and more magnificent structure which was burnt down on
the eve of Chinese New Year in 1901 after being allegedly struck by
lightning and the wrath of the gods, who considered it all too much due
to it having physically resembled an imperial palace. It may be more
modest than its predecessor but both my German friend and I are in
agreement that the Khoo Kongsi's main building remains very impressive,
with plenty of ornamental flourishes that one feels a need to spend
quite a bit of time gazing at in wonder.
As
it so happened, the afternoon that we visited the Khoo Kongsi was one
whose bright sunshine along with bright blue skies really added to the
visual beauty of the place. Something else that always adds to the
wondrousness of it all is that the clanhouse cannot be seen from the
street because the square where it's located is surrounded from all
sides by rowhouses also owned by the Khoo clan.
It really is quite the experience to behold the Khoo Kongsi's main building after walking through an alley and then turning around a corner into this enclosed space; this not least because it can feel like one's been transported from contemporary Penang to ancient China in the blink of an eye! I can recall my gasping aloud the first time I caught sight of this heritage structure. And even after having visited the site quite a few more times since then (including the occasion when my mother finally deigned to check out the place), I honestly feel that its visual splendor never fails to fill me with awe.
2 comments:
Hi YTSL,
You and your travel party certainly visited quite a few interesting sights on this trip. I remember coming upon the Khoo Kongsi, leaving the street behind, and entering into this ornamented "gem" of a clanhouse - just as you describe it here. I felt the strong presence of ancestral history and spirits too - which is why I've never forgotten it. I would love to see this lit up at night for a festival or performance.
Bill
Hi Bill --
I'm happy to learn that you had similar reactions to the Khoo Kongsi! And yes, my German friend and I really did get in a number of interesting sights over the course of our Indonesia-Malaysia visit -- which is how and why it's come to be that I'm still blogging about the trip more than one month after completing it... ;b
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