The main hall (at the back) and ritual dance stage (front)
of Kamakura's Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine
Gone but not forgotten: a large gingko tree that
predated the shrine stood in the area delineated
by the roped off circle -- until March 2010
On my first trip to Kamakura
(back in September of last year), I visited five temples and shrines
over the course of a single day. Although that may not sound like much
to some people, I have to admit that it all threatened to be a bit too
much for me -- with one consequence being that I wasn't able to
appreciate my visit to the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine that's considered to be the most important of all of the town's shrines as much as I would have liked.
Although
I actually hadn't planned to re-visit the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine,
its central location meant that I ended up walking by it twice on my
trip last month to the coastal town that's located some 50 kilometers
southwest of Tokyo. And what with its opening hours being longer than
many of Kamakura's other shrines and temples, it once again ended up
being the final religious establishment in whose grounds I spent time on
a day trip to "the Kyoto of Eastern Japan".
This
time around, my impressions of this very popular Kamkura spot compared
very favorably with the other places I went to that day. One reason is
that, on an aesthetic level, its buildings have a noticeably brighter
color scheme than the other religious establishments I went to that day
(including Eastern Kamakura's Hokokuji and Sugimoto-dera).
A
second reason for my more positive reaction on this second visit is
because I had re-read and remembered stories associated with the shrine
-- such as that which involved Lady Shizuka being forced to dance on the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine's ritual dance stage for the shogun,
and an assassination of another shogun by his nephew who hid behind the
gingko tree that had stood for centuries next to the flight of stairs
up to shrine's main hall. All of which goes to show that knowledge
really can enrich one's experience -- along with a (relatively) less
tired pair of eyes! ;b
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