Monday, June 26, 2017

Sam Poh Tong's award-winning (in 1993!) landscaped garden

Fish getting ready for a feeding frenzy that never was!

Puppet Ponyo posing with something in the garden of Sam Poh Tong
that called to mind the Summer Palace's Marble Boat ;b
A landscape in the Sam Poh Tong garden that's 
far smaller in reality than it looks in the picture!
If it had been up to my mother, our excursion to Ipoh would have pretty much only involved eating and buying food stuffs (such as Tambun pomelos and whole baked chickens) for friends and to take back home to eat later.  As it was though, she was kind enough to accede to my German friend's and my request to do some sightseeing in between the tea as well as lunch and dinner that we had on our day trip to Perak's capital last month; with the famous cave temple of Sam Poh Tong being the attraction decided upon to head over to after the first of our three meals in Ipoh.
My mother tells me that she and my father had taken me to visit this Chinese Buddhist temple built into a limestone cave when I was a child.  However, I have no recollection of that which is the oldest and most famous of Perak's cave temples -- and certainly did not know that in its grounds is situated that which was named the best landscaped garden in Malaysia in 1993.      

If truth be told, that green ornamental space in question is looking rather neglected and somewhat the worse for wear these days.  Also, it's on the small size and therefore could not be considered worth checking out in and of itself.  And yet, when I look at the photos I took of and in it, I get to thinking that this garden still does have its charms.        

At the very least, whoever conceived and designed it certainly is not lacking in imagination.  And while the fish in its pond and also the colorful structure that surely was inspired by the more plainly colored Marble Boat that's found in the Summer Palace in Beijing may be more eye-catching, the section of the garden which actually impressed me the most was a miniature landscape which, at least in the photo I took of it, looks very much to scale and really like a little bit of China can be found in what actually is Malaysia! :) 

Sunday, June 25, 2017

Hiking after the rain in Tai Lam Country Park

A waterfall that's more spectacular than usual

Further views possible than usual, thanks also to the recent rains!

And while some sections of the ground were muddier than
usual, the likes of this butterfly didn't seem to mind one bit! ;b

Earlier today, a friend and I went hiking for the first time since the first typhoon of the year visited Hong Kong two Mondays ago.  And while Typhoon Merbok actually didn't cause too much damage, it brought in its wake an unseasonably large amount of rain; making it so that by this past Wednesday, there already had been more rain in Hong Kong this month than the 30 year average for the whole month of June.

Consequently, when deciding on today's hike route, I opted for one that took my friend and I on paved paths for a good part of the way.  At the same time, since the days of wet weather have been succeeded by ones with hot sunshine, I also figured that it'd be good to spend much of today's outing in areas where there were many shady trees -- which is why we ended up hiking in Tai Lam Country Park, home to many kilometers worth of paved paths along with extensive forested sections. 

What with it being such a beautiful day, I expected the bus that took us very close to one of the country park's main entrances from Tsuen Wan to be packed with passengers.  But not only was that far from the case but the country park itself -- or, at least, the trails we followed from Tsuen Kam Au down to Sham Tseng -- also wasn't full of hikers at all this afternoon. 

About the only part of today's hike where we came across anything like a bottleneck came at Tsing Fai Tong, one of a handful of rural enclaves located within Tai Lam Country Park -- and it wasn't caused by humans!  Rather, while venturing along a narrow path which bordered a small stream flowing through the area, we came across a herd of feral cattle meandering about while looking to graze on the grass that grew there.  

Understandably, I think, our first instinct was to stop and wait for the horned creatures to move away from the paved path.  But after it looked like they were in no hurry to do so and also seemed to be pretty even tempered and comfortable in the presence of humans, we opted to thread our way through the crowd of bovine creatures with what turned out to be surprising ease -- and some four hours after we began our trek, had reached hike's end somewhat wet with perspiration but otherwise in good shape and spirit! :)            

Saturday, June 24, 2017

Specialty dishes worth travelling all the way to Ipoh for! ;b

A generous bowl of Ipoh style yong tau foo :)
The well nigh unbeatable combination of Ipoh bean sprouts,
poached chicken, clear soup and spicy sauce :b
Just because my Indonesian sojourn was over didn't mean that I wouldn't be travelling any more for a time.  For after my German friend and I got back to Penang from Yogyakarta and rested a bit,  we -- together with my mother and another person -- headed out for a daytrip to Ipoh, which a CNN travel piece that had come out just a couple of days earlier had touted as "Malaysia's rising tourism star".
The capital of Perak state is not all that far away from Penang but it can feel like a foreign place for Penangites on account of the main Chinese dialect spoken there being Cantonese (rather than Penang Hokkien) and the food it's famous for accordingly differing quite a bit (even while being pretty delicious!).  A case in point: after we got into town, the first order of business was to go have lunch; and at the coffee shop that was our first -- but far from last -- eating stop of the day, I had to make a mental adjustment and get to ordering my food in Cantonese (which I had last used while in Hong Kong) rather than any of the languages I had been using recently in Penang as well as Indonesia!

While my mother introduced my German friend to her favorite Ipoh dish (known as Ipoh hor fun), I opted for a bowl of Ipoh yong tao fooThis Hakka dish's name literally translates into English as "stuffed bean curd" but it -- at least, the variants I've eaten in Malaysia -- is so much more than that.  Resembling the delicious Hong Kong street snack whose name translates into English as "three stuffed treasures", fried foods comprising such as eggplant (aubergine), green peppers and sausages stuffed with fish paste, the way to go is to order an assortment and eat them doused in sweet hoisin sauce, chilli sauce, or both!  

But whereas the Hong Kong "treasures" tend to be eaten as a snack on the fly, at stands with no seats in sight, Ipoh (and, for that matter, Ampang) yong tau foo are eaten sitting down and substantial enough to make for a solid meal.  In addition, there are boiled rather than just deep fried items in the selection which -- and this is where Ipoh yong tau foo differs from Ampang yong tau foo as well as Hong Kong's "three stuffed treasures" -- are served in a clear soup.  
Much as I enjoyed my Ipoh lunch however, the meal I really was looking forward to was dinner: which, at my request, was at an eatery specializing in bean sprout chicken.  It may not sound like much but trust me when I tell you that its poached chicken component tastes absolutely fantastically juicy and the dish's star ingredient are the biggest bean sprouts you'll ever see and is far juicier as well as crunchier than any beansprout you'll have ever tasted -- unless you have the famous Ipoh bean sprouts in Ipoh!
And yes, I realize it may sound crazy to wax so lyrical about bean sprouts.  But, in all honesty, the peppery bean sprout component of Ipoh's signature dish is soooo good that I often think that I'd be thoroughly happy to just make a meal out of a plate of rice topped with a generous pile of Ipoh bean sprouts and bathed in the eatery's complimentary clear soup -- that is, until I eat a piece of that poached chicken and find myself automatically reaching out to eat a second, third, fourth, etc. piece of it! ;b

Friday, June 23, 2017

Reflections on nighttime in Yogyakarta, and my general Indonesian experiences

Yogyakarta's Jalan Malioboro on a quiet week night ;)

Night-time road traffic in the vicinity of Tugu Jogja

"Where are all the people?", I remember asking my German friend when I visited several towns and cities in her home country (including Hirschhorn and Speyer) and found their streets unexpectedly bereft of people.  In contrast, on the first couple of nights that she and I spent in Yogyakarta, we both were shocked by the large crowds we encountered on the sidewalks as well as the heavy traffic on the road.  Indeed, I'd go so far as to admit that the sheer amount of people on the pavements and streets was actually intimidating even to someone who's become very used to dealing with teeming crowds after having lived more than ten years now in super high-density Hong Kong

In retrospect, I think my fearfulness stemmed in part to my being in an unfamiliar city rather than just the teeming crowds themselves.  Things also weren't helped by the outdoor lighting in Indonesia being nowhere near as bright as what I've become used to here in Hong Kong, where the light pollution has been found to be the worst on the planet.  In addition, huge swathes of the sidewalks in Yogyakarta were uneven and sometimes potholed to the point that I did fear at times that I'd trip and fall, and injure myself, over the course of my weaving around people and navigating our way around town.      

In any event, I felt more comfortable walking about in the city the second night that I was there than the previous night.  And on our final night in Yogyakarta, walking about at night turned out to be really enjoyable -- what with there being a nice breeze about that hadn't been there before, and also there being way fewer people out and about.

So vast was the size difference in the crowds that my German friend and I were as taken aback by it as we had been by the size of the crowd that we had encountered on our first night in the city -- at least until we got to realizing that our first two nights in Yogyakarta had been weekend nights while our third and final night there was a Monday night!  At the same time, it's all relative, as the proverbial "they" say.  For here's pointing out that the photos at the top of this blog post were taken on the "quiet" night! 

For the record: I really did feel so intimidated those first couple of nights that I didn't feel comfortable taking out my camera and taking photos -- and amidst a whole bunch -- of perfect strangers.  But just as my pre-trip apprehensions about Indonesia (including those stemming from news reports that got me worrying that the whole country was a hotbed of conservative Islam and that racism would rear its ugly, sometimes very violent, head once more there) were dispelled by the interactions I had with various Indonesian people (include whole hordes of students at Borobudur!), so too did my night-time apprehensions end up melting away and I ended up having a pretty good time in an incredibly cultural heritage-rich country I now will definitely consider revisiting before too long. :)

Thursday, June 22, 2017

Prambanan's apparently often overlooked Candi Sewu

Not a movie set but a bonafide ancient temple!
I could easily imagine this central Javanese site 
figuring in an Indiana Jones type movie though...
This also is the kind of setting which called for 
Puppet Ponyo to be captured by the camera in! ;b
More seriously though, Candi Sewu's main building is one of those 
structures that are impressive from whichever angle you viewed it :)

Pretty much whenever one reads or hears about Prambanan, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed site is described as being a Hindu monument.  But within this ancient temple compound -- and, actually, counted as part of the temple complex -- lie Buddhist temples (as is the case with the nearby Candi Plaosan, only on an even grander scale); with the largest and northernmost of these being that known as Candi Sewu.  

In its heyday, the Sewu temple complex was said to have been home to 249 buildings.  But that was 13 centuries ago -- and since that time, Candi Sewu has been witness to the fall of the kingdom whose rulers built it and also has been buried by ash from one major volcanic eruption and severely damaged from at least one major earthquake.  Furthermore, it's suffered from looting over the years by both Dutch colonists and local villagers, with a not a single head left on the Buddha statues found within the compound.

However, when compared to the two other Buddhist temples (Lumbung and Bubrah) located between Candi Sewu and Prambanan's main courtyard (where such as the Hindu temples dedicated to Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu are located), there's much to see -- and be impressed by -- still at Candi Sewu.  For example, whichever side of the temple complex that one approaches from, one will be met with the sight of a large pair of striking-looking Dwarapala (armed door or gate guardians), each carved from a single block of stone.  

Also, even while Candi Sewu's main temple would be dwarfed by the 47-meter-high Candi Shiva over at the main Prambanan compound, it's still no slouch at 30 meters in height -- especially when one considers that its considerable age.  In addition, a walk around this ancient structure (as well as along the walled outer corridor of its high platform) truly helps to emphasize how incredible is this cross-shaped 20-sided polygon architectural plus archaeological gem.

All in all, Candi Sewu's probably my favorite of the temples I visited on the Prambanan Plain.  To be sure, Candi Sambisari was a good place to start, Candi Sari provided balance (as the only non-temple I visited that day), and my initial sightings of atmospheric Candi Plaosan and the majestically tall temples in Prambanan's main courtyard will stay in my memory for a long time.  

But my visit to Candi Sewu truly felt special and magical -- in no small part due to my having been able to enjoy being at this expansive complex in what felt like amazing solitude since so very few people looked to have decided that it'd be worth the bother to walk some 800 extra meters to it from the main Prambanan compound!  Probably not since I visited Great Zimbabwe some two decades ago now did I feel like an intrepid explorer (not just traveller), and so very blessed to be able to have the space as well as time to take in wondrous sights in an atmosphere of such blessed peace and quiet! :)  

Wednesday, June 21, 2017

Soaring spires and spirits at Prambanan! (Photo-essay)

On the same day that I visited Candi Sambisari, (Vihara) Sari and Candi Plaosan, I also spent time at Prambanan.  Although part of me worried that I'd suffer from "temple fatigue" the way I had on a visit to temple- and shrine-rich Kyoto a few years back.  But any doubts that I'd feel underwhelmed by this Yogyakarta-area UNESCO World Heritage-listed site that's often overshadowed in reputation by the considerably better known Borobudur quickly got dispelled when I set my eyes on what the official government brochure describes as "the tallest and most beautiful Hindu temple in the world".  
Between the 8th century and 10th century AD, some 240 temples were built within the grounds of Prambanan.  Over the years, some of them have fallen into ruin -- and as recently as 2006, these temple compounds suffered extensive damage as a result of a magnitude 6.4 earthquake.  But enough remains to leave this visitor feeling awe-struck, and also feeling so very fortunate to have been able to visit the place: whose soaring spires tower over the rest of the landscape and leave one feeling very small indeed; and whose stonework gets one marvelling at how amazingly skilled and able its architects and builders -- who lived so very long ago -- were...

Dedicated to Shiva, the tallest of Prambanan's temples 
soars up to 47 meters (around 144 feet) in height

The existence of just a single towering temple is amazing enough 
but there's more than one of them to be found at Prambanan!

  Puppet Ponyo also wants it to be known how
elaborately decorated these soaring structures are!

Like at Borobudur, the detailed sculptural reliefs 
on the temple walls inspire awe along with the 
monumental size and nature of the buildings themselves
In Prambanan's Candi Shiva Mahadeva is a statue of the god's 

 In the inner chamber of Prambanan's Candi Brahma can 

Puppet Ponyo looking sufficiently awestruck by it all!

  Truly, these are the kind of buildings that make you feel that 
you're in the realm of gods when walking amongst them :)

Monday, June 19, 2017

Ruins and restorations at Candi Plaosan

It's going to take a lot of work before the reconstruction of 
Candi Plaosan approaches anything close to completion...
Still, there's enough on site as it is to give 
a sense of what was and could be again...

...and even if nothing else, the sheer size of it (and do please click 
on the photo to view an enlarged version) can take the breath away!
Within walking distance of the UNESCO World Heritage listed Prambanan temple compounds -- and viewable from some sections of it -- lies an ancient temple complex whose construction preceded that 10th century monument by a century or so.  There are hopes that in time, the large temple group collectively known as Candi Plaosan will join Prambanan, Borobudur and six other Indonesian sites on the UNESCO World Heritage list.       
Before that can happen however, a huge amount of work is required from archaeologists, conservators and associated others, since the vast majority of the stone structures on this approximately 2,000 square meter site currently lie in a majorly ruined state.  To give a sense of the size and scale of the task at hand: while Plaosan's towering twin temples have been restored, almost all of the ancient complex's 174 ancillary temples, 116 stupas and 58 shrines have not.
Consequently, when walking around the site, one feels more like one is at a working archaeological site, with large piles of stones waiting to be examined and be used to re-assemble a particular structure, than an actual monument whose glory and beauty -- like in the case of Borobudur -- can be easily appreciated.  Adding to that sense is there appearing to be more archaeology teams in the area than tourists (even though entry to the site is free) -- and I also wouldn't be surprised if my German friend and I were the only non-Indonesian visitors to the Plaosan complex that day (and maybe even week).
Almost needless to say, this is the kind of place where it helps to be able to imagine what the temple complex used to look like (and could look like again some time in the future), and also to know interesting details about it: such as that Plaosan was built during the reign of a Hindu ruler (Rakai Pikatan) whose queen (Sri Kahulunnan, AKA Pramodhawardhani) was of the Buddhist faith; and that Hindu-Buddhist union is reflected in this particular temple complex containing and combining Hindu and Buddhist religious iconography, statuary and architecture.
Remarkably, Pramodhawardhani also has been credited with the inauguration of Borobudur along with Plaosan and some other temples located on the Prambanan Plain that I didn't have time to visit on this maiden Indonesian visit!  Meanwhile, to her husband Rakai Pikatan goes the credit for having initiated work on what would turn out to be the even more magnificent Prambanan temple complex (whose statue of the Hindu goddess Durga is said to have been modelled on Rakai Pikatan's (Buddhist) consort)!     

Sunday, June 18, 2017

The monument-rich Prambanan Plain's Sari: A vihara rather than candi?

One more ancient central Javanese sacred structure --
this one dating back to the 8th century and Buddhist :b

A view from within that gives a good idea
how thick the structures walls are!
Does the building's base look secure and sturdy to you?
Pretty much every ancient religious structure that my German friend and I checked out in Indonesia had the word candi as part of its name.  Think about it: thus far, I've devoted blog posts to Candi Pawon, Candi Mendut and Candi Sambisari.  And for the record: the Indonesians actually do refer to their country's -- and, in fact, the world's -- largest Buddhist monument as Candi Borobudur.
For some reason, until this recent Indonesian trip, I thought the word "candi" referred only to Hindu temples but in the week or so that I was in the country, I learnt that it's applied to ancient Buddhist as well Hindu stone buildings.  Actually, candi refers specifically those stone buildings used for worship, or where the ashes of cremated Hindu kings and Buddhist grandees are stored.  However, I know of -- and did visit -- at least one Javanese candi that's so called but may actually be a vihara instead.

Located not too far away from Candi Sambisari and stylistically part of the same group of ancient monuments as it (and Prambanan), that which is known as Candi Sari actually predates those structures and differs from them in being Buddhist rather than Hindu.  Situated around 200 meters from Candi Kalasan (which I saw from the road but didn't visit, because it's considered to be in poorer condition than the other ancient structures located on the volcanic and archeaologically as well as biologically rich Prambanan Plain, and less well maintained too), this 8th century structure is postulated to have been to house sleeping quarters for the monks who served at Candi Kalasan or went there on a pilgrimage.

Soaring some 17 meters high, Candi Sari was a two-storey structure but is currently missing the wooden beams that divided up the interior space and served as the base for the upper floor.  One therefore has to use one's imagination to imagine how it was in ancient times.  Still, one thing was clear when we visited: that the inside of this stone building is not only considerably darker than the outside (during the day) but also is noticeably cooler too.  

Most overwhelmingly, however, as was the case also at Candi Mendut, one had the fearful sense that this ancient structure wasn't the most stable out there -- and absolutely was not one which people would want to be in during an earthquake.  And what with central Java having had its share of tremors and major geological movements, the truth of the matter is that neither my German friend nor I were inclined to linger for long inside this more than 1,200-year-old monument that we preferred to be awed by from outside and maybe even a distance! ;)

Saturday, June 17, 2017

Revealing details of Candi Sambisari

This 9th-century Hindu temple was rediscovered 
in 1966, centuries after it was buried some 5 meters 
below ground by ash from a major volcanic eruption!

Its main building is adorned by 
stone carvings such as these

...and pride of place within it goes to 
a large lingam and yoni! ;b

It's hard for a Malaysian to not suffer from ancient monument envy when visiting Indonesia, particularly central Java.  It's bad enough that this neighboring part of the world is home to the largest Buddhist structure in the world and that Borobudur truly is incredibly magnificent.  But when you also throw in another ancient and magnificent monument that's located around 50 kilometers away into the equation, it does feel like this area has an almost unbelievable as well as amazing surfeit of monumental riches.

Like Borobudur, Prambanan is a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site.  And like that over 1,100-year-old Buddhist temple, that which also dates back to that historical period also has subsidiary temples along with the main one.  And if all this was not enough, consider that there are a number of other temples that are similarly ancient -- plus architecturally and ornamentally similar -- located to the northeast, southeast and west of the Prambanan complex!

To be sure, they are smaller than Borobudur or Prambanan.  But a visit to such as Candi Sambisari -- which also dates back to the 9th century AD, and was only re-discovered some five decades ago -- can whet the appetite and get the blood flowing on a day when you know that you'll also be visiting Prambanan later that day! 

In 1966, a local farmer's hoe hit a carved stone when working on his land located close to the small hamlet of Sambisari.  Upon investigation, the artifact turned out to belong to an ancient temple which lay meters down below ground.  Uncovered and excavated, that which has come to be known as Candi Sambisari is now completely visible -- and its main temple's inner chamber accessible, and contents openly revealed, to the public.       

Unlike Candi Pawon, the contents of its inner chamber have remained intact.  So, like with Candi Mendut, one is able to see what lies inside.  But, this being a Hindu temple rather than a Buddhist one, no statues of Buddha are to be found within it.  Instead, pride of place goes to -- and no, I am not kidding -- large, stylized representations of a phallus (specifically, that of the Hindu god Shiva) and vulva/vagina!

I have to admit: My initial, innocent thought was that the lingam (as it's known in Sanskrit) was a container, whose tip was removable, upon which a holy statue or relic would be revealed.  But once you find out what it actually is, not only will you realize that that's exactly what it is but, also, that there are a number of other Shiva Linga outside in the surrounding grounds: more precisely, four located in each corner of the rectangular compound and another four at the cardinal points! ;b

Friday, June 16, 2017

Drinking alcohol in Indonesia

A plate of Indonesia's iconic gado-gado
The bottle of Indonesian beer I had with that dish ;b
The kind of food I'd rather have a non-alcoholic
drink with rather than an alcoholic one :)
In my six days in Indonesia, I only had alcohol twice.  Actually, let's make it more impressive: the only alcohol I drank over the course of the more than two weeks in total that I spent in Malaysia and Indonesia last month consisted of two bottles of pilsener -- not because I was going out of my way to abstain from alcohol when in those two Muslim majority countries but, rather, because there are so many deliciously refreshing non-alcoholic drinks available there!

The other thing about Indonesia, as in neighboring Malaysia, is that so much of the local food strikes me as going better with non-alcoholic drinks such as fruit juices, teas or coffee than anything alcoholic.  And in Indonesia, I pretty much exclusively ate food that was recognizably Indonesian in nature (except at that one memorable afternoon tea at Yogyakarta's Phoenix Hotel!).
The afternoon after my German friend and I paid a visit to the kraton though, I found myself badly craving cold beer.  It wasn't because of the food I ate at lunch that day (gado-gado with some prawn crackers thrown in, as it turned out).  Rather, it was because our walk from the royal palace to the area of the city where the restaurant we had decided we wanted to eat at -- which also was home to a few batik factories and shops that my German friend was very interested in checking out -- turned out to be considerably longer and under a more mercilessly strong sun and uncloudy sky than we had thought would be the case! 

I know that alcohol is a diuretic (like tea and coffee too, actually), so it theoretically isn't something you should drink when you're feeling dehydrated.  But theory be damned in this case because a cold beer tasted ever so good when we finally did make it to the restaurant (which, unlike some other Indonesian eateries, did have alcoholic drinks on its menu)!

In such conditions, the bottle of Bintang beer refreshed as well as relaxed.  (I'm sure a rest in the shade and a fan blasting our table helped too.)  While I normally prefer ales over lagers, and draft beer to that in bottles or cans, that big bottle of chilled Indonesian pilsener really tasted very nice indeed -- and so much so that I opted to have another the next day in similar conditions (that is, over a meal at a restaurant that we had walked a bit to get to)! :)

Thursday, June 15, 2017

Hello Kitty reigns supreme in Yogyakarta?!

Hello Kitty balloons for sale along with others
on the streets of Yogyakarta :)

Very pink and Hello Kitty-fied vehicles line a Yogyakarta lane! :b
While strolling about in Cologne with my German friend a few years back, we came across a bunch of Hello Kitty items on display in a shop window.  In Hong Kong (the home of such as the world's first Hello Kitty pop-up supermarket, and where nary a day goes by without my making a Hello Kitty spotting of some sort or other), this wouldn't be that unremarkable a sight.  But in Germany, it was so unusual that it caused us to stop in our tracks and gape for at least a few moments at its very existence!   
All in all, I reckon it's easy enough to conclude that Hello Kitty is (and her fans are) more easily found in Asia than Europe or any other continent.  I've been told that South Asia is a kawaii desert where few fans of the cute cat character are to be found -- but, since I've never been to that part of the world (at least not beyond a couple of its airports), I can't personally vouch for this.  What I do know for a fact is that I've seen Hello Kitty products wherever else I've been to in the world's largest continent: including Japan (but of course!), South Korea, Taiwan, Vietnam and Malaysia (where quite a number of Hello Kitty items can be found at my family home alone!).   
Still, all this didn't prepare me for how mega popular the furry feline character looks to be in Yogyakarta -- or maybe all of Indonesia!  It's not just that, like in Hong Kong, one will invariably spot Hello Kitty's visage on a clothing item, bag or such when in a crowd or that many a private car has a large Hello Kitty decal on its back, sides, front or all of the aforementioned.  Rather, there's also the fact that a popular tourist item is a T-shirt emblazoned on the front with the words "Hello Yogyakarta" and the kawaii character's face (along with some misspelled words that confirm that it's unlikely to have been a Sanrio-approved product)!     

Nonetheless, all these previous spottings didn't prepare me for the sight that greeted my German friend and I on a quiet lane that we found ourselves walking along soon after exiting the kraton.  For after a morning viewing traditional cultural dances, portraits of Yogyakarta royalty and such, pretty much the last thing we'd expect to see in the area would be a line of Hello Kitty-fied vehicles which looked to be old Morris Minors or Volkswagons that had been hollowed out and tranformed into pedal-powered transportation as well as painted very pink indeed! :D

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

Traditional dance performances at Yogyakarta's kraton that come with some surprising elements

Puppet Ponyo taking in the traditional dance performance
at Yogyakarta's kraton (and swaying a bit to its music?!)
Beautiful the maidens may be but
armed they also are! :O
A dance involving a princess who shoots arrows
at demons that threaten her :O
For many people, the highlight of their visit to the royal palace of Yogyakarta involves the taking in of a cultural performance held at the complex's inner pavilion.  Depending on the day, it could be such as a gamelan concert or a wayang kulit (shadow puppet) show.  On the day (a Sunday) that my German friend and I visited, we were treated to a one-hour-long performance of three traditional Javanese dances to live music courtesy of a gamelan orchestra.
If truth be told, I was initially less than enthused by the dancers, who were beautifully clad and not without talent but whose dance moves were excruciatingly slow.  And it didn't help that, as befits Central Javanese court dance conventions, the quartet performing the first dance were expected to keep their faces expressionless, communicating more through ritualized body movements and stylized hand gestures.
At one point, I got to finding the activities of the birds that were flitting about in the rafters to be more fascinating than what was happening on stage.  But then I noticed a flash of light below and realized with a start that the courtly performers were waving krises about in the air and even pointing it at one another!  With my attention squarely now back on the dancers, I got to recognizing that the particular dance being performed involved a battle between four heroines: not at all the kind of subject matter one would have expected of an artistic number whose pacing gave it a dream-like feeling, and actually caused some members of the audience to fall into a slumber!   
His hairy legs gave away the sex of the long haired, masked performer who had the stage all to himself for the next dance.  Any hopes that a male dancer would have faster dance moves than the female dancers who had preceded him though were soon very quickly dashed.  And when his dance ended, the audience numbers thinned considerably as quite a few people decided they had their fill of performing arts for the day!   
Too bad, really, as I reckon that the show's organizers had saved the best for last: with the final dance in the set being the performance of scenes from the Ramayana involving a beautiful princess repelling attacks by demonic individuals with a bow and arrow.  The fastest paced of the three dances by far, it also -- surprise, surprise! -- was the most exciting and interesting.  And contributing to the fascination was seeing a traditional dance based on an ancient religious epic poem coming across like it could have come out of a contemporary feminist trope!     

On the subject of gender (roles): it's interesting that the set of traditional dances chosen to be performed exclusively featured unmasked females and masked males, with not a single unmasked male dancer in sight.  Also noticeable was that all the gamelan musicians were male while -- if I remember correctly -- all the vocal accompanists were females.  
While the division of labor along gender lines might have been expected of a Muslim society (which Yogyakarta's predominantly is), the significant roles accorded to females came as a bit of a surprise.  Still, the biggest eye-opener for me may well have been how halus (refined but also "soft") were the observed actions of a good many of the male as well as female performers.  Indeed, as I joked to my German friend, if not for the abundant and coarse hair on the legs of the second dance's sole performer, I honestly would not have been able to tell if the dancer concerned had been male or female! ;b          

Tuesday, June 13, 2017

The kraton -- not kraken! -- of Yogyakarta

The most visible face of the Sultan of Yogyakarta's palace complex

Buildings new and old can be found within what's effectively 
a walled city that's home to some 25,000 people

Among the more interesting items on display in the kraton
is this clock with numbers written out in Jawi

The mind works in strange and mysterious ways.  How else to account for my thinking of the monstrous kraken (of Norse mythology and 1981 movie Clash of the Titans) whenever I saw and heard the word "kraton" -- which actually turns out to be the Javanese word for a royal palace: as in, the kraton in Yogyakarta that's more formally known as the Keraton Ngayogyakarta Hadinigrat and is the main seat of the Sultan of Yogyakarta and his family.

Considered to be the cultural and political heart of this central Javanese city, the kraton is a collection of buildings, some of which date back to 1755-1756, but many of which look and are considerably newer.  Some sections of the palace complex which continue to be regularly used by the hereditary ruler of Yogyakarta (who also serves as governor of the modern Yogyakarta Special Region) and his family are closed to the public.  But a sizable area of the royal compound is open to the public and functions as a museum of sorts that also includes a space where traditional cultural performances regularly take place.        

While it's the main tourist attraction in the city of Yogyakarta, the kraton pales in comparison to Borobudur, located only some 40 kilometers away -- but then pretty much anything would, really.  Actually, the fact of the matter is that the kraton also visually is no match for many royal residences in other parts of Asia such as Beijing's Forbidden City, or even castles of regional strongmen in Japan such as that of Himeji and Matsumoto.

Unlike all of those places mentioned in the previous paragraph though, Yogyakarta's kraton is still utilized today for what it was built for.  Consequently, it makes for an interesting place to visit in terms of what it can tell people about present day matters as well as historical ones, and the adjustment at times of tradition to better suit contemporary expectations and preferences. 

As an example, consider my discovery that the present Sultan, Hamengkubuwono X, discontinued the polygamist tradition of Javanese royalty and has had five daughters -- but no sons -- with his consort, Ratu Hemas.  Even more daring may be his proclamation in 2015 that his eldest daughter, Princess Mangkubumi, will succeed him -- rather than any of his male (but more distant) relatives.  

On a more trivial note: I also was surprised to find that in certain parts of the kraton, the wearing of a hat (or, in my case, baseball cap) by women as well as men is forbidden; this particularly since my general impression previously was that these days in many Muslim areas, the preference is for females to cover their heads rather than keep them uncovered!  But, then, it also was true that in all of the portraits of royal females on display in the kraton, none of them were depicted with head coverings even though it does seem to be the case that the Yogyakarta royal family has been Muslim for centuries.