Thursday, October 19, 2017

A Peace Memorial Park where reminders of the horrors of war abound (Photo-essay)

Over the years, I've read more than one account of people having felt emotionally devastated after a visit to Hiroshima's Peace Memorial Park (which invariably includes spending time at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum is located).  But rather than put off doing so until my final day in the city, I decided to make straight for the museum after checking into the hotel and then going for lunch on the first day of my most recent Japan trip.   

As it turned out though, even while I did end up shedding a few tears in the museum, I actually didn't feel as upset as I thought I would be.  (Put another way: I was no where as traumatized by the experience as I was by viewing Isao Takahata's Grave of the Fireflies).  Maybe it was because I braced myself sufficiently for the horrors that I'd come across at the museum.  

In addition, I reckon that it helped quite a bit to do the reverse of what many folks do: that is, my mother and I went to the museum first, then strolled from there through the Peace Memorial Park to the iconic Genbaku (aka Atomic Bomb) Dome that now serves as a peace memorial and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996.  For this way, we saw the horrors of war first, then spent time afterwards in what actually is a peaceful, tranquil space for all of its being home to ample visual tributes to thousands of fallen folk...

The mainly subterranean Hiroshima National Peace 
lies within the expansive Peace Memorial Park

 The Genbaku Dome viewed through the saddle-shaped roof of
the Cenotaph for A-bomb Victims where floral tributes are laid

Looking back along the park's central axis at the Flame of Peace,
Cenotaph, and Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum 

The bronze figure of a girl holding a paper crane
stands at the top of the Children's Peace Monument


Within this memorial mound has been interred the remains of
around 70,000 victims of the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima

the only structure left standing in the 2 kilometer central area where 
the atom bomb exploded over Hiroshima on August 8th, 1945

What I would like to think of as warm rays of hope (not reminders of 
destructive heat) shining through what's now a symbol of people's hope 
for world peace and the ultimate elimination of all nuclear weapons

Wednesday, October 18, 2017

Musings resulting from a visit to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum

A watch which stopped working 
at 8.15pm on August 6th, 1945
 
Silver and copper coins melted and fused together by the 
 
Imagine the damage caused to humans as well as objects
in the wake of the atom bomb being dropped on Hiroshima
 
On my first ever visit to Japan back in 1982, I was taken to the northwestern Kyushu city of Nagasaki and saw shocking sights in its Atomic Bomb Museum which have been seared into my brain and memory.  Three and half decades later, I paid a visit to the western Honshu city of Hiroshima and, even while part of me dreaded doing so, felt obliged to also spend time at the Peace Memorial Museum of the first ever city in the world to have had an atom bomb dropped onto it.
 
Ongoing renovation work has resulted in the closing of part of the museum until July 2018.  But in view of its newer East Building being open when my mother and I visited, and its possessing a total floor capacity of 1,615 square meters, I think it fair to say that we still managed to see (and hear) plenty on our visit to this museological institution which regularly has more than one million visitors annually.
 
The way the exhibits are set up, one first gets a glance at how Hiroshima looked shortly before the dropping of the atomic bomb, then an overview of the actual event that took place at 8.15am on August 6th, 1945.  Next come details about the events leading up to it (such as those relating to the Manhattan Project all the way to the atomic bomb test in the New Mexico desert but also salient political and military developments, including the Japanese invasion of Malaya and attack on Pearl Harbor), followed by historical information about Hiroshima before, during and after World War II, then -- finally and most devastingly -- a presentation of the effects of the dropping of the atomic bomb by way of the exhibition of actual objects damaged by the bomb and telling of stories about actual atomic bomb victims, a large percentage of whom were civilians and quite a number of whom were children.   
 
Early on during my visit to the museum, I felt like I was being more intellectually than emotionally impacted by what I was seeing and hearing there.  Feeling able to actually critique the exhibition design and narrative, I got to thinking such thoughts as that certain display panels probably should have been placed further apart in order to better deal with the sheer volume of visitors to the museum and, also, that the information being supplied was surprisingly as well as admirably even-handed.
 
Then I got to the displays which showed the wounds sustained by individual people.  The photos may be in black and white but believe me when I tell you that they totally can make you see, realize and even feel how much pain, suffering, misery and agony had been inflicted on actual human beings -- and when you consider that the number of victims of the atom bomb dropped on Hiroshima is estimated at over 100,000, the sheer scale of what was wreaked really gets one feeling such incredible sorrow and horror.

At this point, you invariably get to thinking: Hiroshima didn't deserve this.  Even though -- as pointed out in the section of the museum detailing the city's history -- it had been home to a major Imperial Japanese Navy base and been the major despatching point for the military for the Sino-Japanese and Russo-Japanese Wars.  This is not just because the vast majority of the Hiroshima atom bomb victims were not military personnel.  Rather, it's just because the damage wreaked by the atom bomb comes across as so very inhumane.
 
Among the museum's key objectives is to convey Hiroshima's deepest wish for the elimination of all nuclear weapons and the realization of a genuinely peaceful international community.  And I must say that among the saddest parts of my going to to this truly "must visit" museum is that those wishes are so very far away from being realized; this not least, thanks in no small part to the idiocy/lunacy of Donald Trump and Kim Jong Un, the world now appears to be closer to a Third World War and/or the use of nuclear weapons far more powerful than the atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki than it has been in years, if not ever.  

Tuesday, October 17, 2017

Travelling, walking, eating and drinking a lot on my most recent Japan trip ;b

View of Japan from the plane I took there most recently :)

View from the JR West Miyajima ferry

View from an Onomichi hilltop (and yes, I definitely recommending 
clicking on the picture to view an enlarged version of it!)

Late last night, I returned to Hong Kong from my fifth trip to Japan with my mother.  Over the course of a little bit more than a week, we visited six different towns and cities along with one village and three UNESCO World Heritage-listed sites.  We also took a bunch of train, bus and ferry rides -- and one ride up a ropeway in my case (and two in my mother's).  In addition, there actually was a day when my pedometer clocked my having walked over 30,000 steps!

Before this trip, I hoped that I'd be able to get in a lot of walking to balance out what I knew would be a whole lot of eating (and drinking).  Fortunately, that did turn out to be the case; otherwise, I'd have gained more unwanted pounds again like I did on my Penang visit this past July during which I feasted on a lot more durian than I probable should have done!

Often, my mother and I made a point to sample area specialties (which included -- and those who are "up" on their Japanese foods will be able to figure out where we went based on the following mentions -- oysters, anago (salt-water eel), okonomiyaki, tai (red seabream) and kushiage).  And I think it's telling that the worst meal by far of the trip -- and, actually, that I've ever partaken of in Japan -- was at a restaurant that served more than one type of food, none of which seemed specific to the area. 

While my mother didn't drink a drop of alcohol over the course of the trip (as would be expected of someone who is on the record as stating that she felt a bit tipsy after sipping one mouthful of sake one evening at Sake Bar Ginn!), I just as expectedly drank quite a bit of sake and beer while in the Land of the Rising Sun.  Indeed, rare was the meal (aside from breakfast) where my food went unaccompanied by an alcoholic libation.  At the same time though, believe it or not, I actually didn't drink any alcohol outside of meal times -- since I really do believe that sake and such are best accompanied by food (as well as that most Japanese foods go very well indeed with sake or beer)! ;b 

Thursday, October 5, 2017

At Victoria Park the night after the Mid-Autumn Festival

Visual treats abound at Victoria Park this time of the year :)
 
My favorite display of this year's mid-Autumn Lantern Carnival
 
And the Peach Blossom Wishing Tree was pretty cool too... :b
 
My mother arrived for a visit yesterday (complete with a mooncake gift) and my plan for the evening had included our taking a stroll through the section of Victoria Park where lantern displays had been erected for the Mid-Autumn Festival.  But after last night turned out to be more rainy than we would have liked, we postponed checking out this year's Mid-Autumn Lantern Carnival by some 24 hours -- and were rewarded not only by the carnival still going on (through to the end of the week, in fact) and being on the enjoyable side but, also, with glimpses of the still largely full looking moon in what's still a pretty cloudy sky.
 
Each year that I've been to view lantern displays at Victoria Park around what's supposed to be mid-autumn, the weather's felt more summery than autumnal.  Something else that I now know to expect is to see some particularly unusual -- even whimsically -- shaped lanterns on display; with past years' efforts including those shaped like the 2008 Beijing Olympics' fuwa mascots, Taoist deities (like Na Cha the Great) and even traditional Hong Kong snacks like curry fishballs on sticks!
 
This year's contributions included cheongsam-shaped lanterns and a peach blossom wishing tree (which seems to be a non-traditional amalgamation of two traditionally prized plants) along with a bevy of animals, including pandas, other bears and lots of rabbits.  Upon seeing all those rabbits, my mother wondered aloud if she was mistaken that this year's actually the year of the rabbit rather than the chicken and/or rooster.  
 
After I hastened to tell her that the rabbits at the carnival represent moon rabbits rather than those from the Chinese zodiac, I got to realizing that -- unlike last year, when there were indeed a lot of monkey-shaped lanterns that made it really easy to remember that it was the year of the monkey -- my mother did have a point in noticing that chicken and/or roosters were not very well represented at this year's lantern carnival.  Does anyone have an idea why this is the case?  If so, do please share your thoughts on the matter! :)            

Monday, October 2, 2017

Asian antique items are the highlight works at Fine Art Asia 2017

Entrance to Fine Art Asia 2017
 
 Under the flags in the exhibition hall
 
Antique arms and armor on show and for sale at a booth
 
What constitutes fine art?  If one were to base one's definition on what's on exhibit (and sale) at Fine Art Asia 2017, one would include historic and rare whisky (since there was a booth -- Cask 88's -- devoted to that alcoholic beverage), antique arms and armor (the focus at Runjeet Singh's booth), jewellery (at a number of booths), antique furniture (ditto) along with paintings by the like of Corot, Monet and Picasso (on show and sale at Gladwell and Patterson's booths), sculptures in various media, and photography by the likes of Fan Ho.
 
Based on its far wider range of the items on exhibit (and sale) alone, it should be obvious that this particular art fair is very different than Art Basel (Hong Kong) -- whose 2017 edition I checked out this past March and found much to appreciate.  Actually, in view of Art Basel purporting to be a modern and contemporary art fair and Fine Art Asia showcasing antique works, it's actually surprising to find some overlap between the two art events; this not least because Art Basel exhibitors sometimes look to extend its purview chronologically back in time by including artworks created in the 19th as well as 20th and 21st century while works by contemporary, living artists can be found at Fine Art Asia along with artefacts dating back thousands of years.  
 
But although both art fairs have exhibitors from outside Asia as well as within the continent, it's quite noticeable that Art Basel's biggest draws are often from the West while the items I find most eye-catching and interesting at Fine Art Asia tend to be from within Asia, particularly the eastern portion of the world's largest continent.  More specifically, each time now that I've attended this particular art fair, I've been bowled over by the large antique Chinese (and, in 2015, also Japanese) screens showcased at the booth of Paris-based Ateliers Brugier; with this year's standout piece being a double-sided, 12-panel coromandel lacquer screen from the 17th century depicting the Taoist Paradise, complete with Xiwangmu (the Queen Mother of the West), Shuo Lao (the god of long life and luck) and the Eight Immortals (Pat Sin Leng).
 
The other highlight of Fine Art Asia 2017 for me was the special exhibition entitled Union and Reunion presented by the Hong Kong Antique and Art Galleries Association.  Telling stories of relationships between art works, it placed a spotlight on such as a Mongolian community whose people developed closed cultural ties with Tibet by way of their embracing Tibetan Buddhism, and whose material culture accordingly reflects this cultural relationship.
 
Most touchingly for me was the tale told about a pair of antique huanghuali tables made by the same artist, probably around the same time, but which were acquired by different owners who treated them very differently.  Whereas one had much care lavished on it, the other didn't.  Consequently, when they were reunited years later, one appeared as polished as an emperor while the other had become as rough as a martial artist.  Yet if one looked carefully, it was still obvious that they were "related".  And, indeed, when I did, it was so. :)

Sunday, October 1, 2017

Protesting political persecution in Hong Kong on China's National Day

Victoria Park's Central Lawn was on the muddy side this afternoon...
 
Undeterred, today's protesters (including Lam Wing Kee) marched on
 
And many a yellow umbrella could be seen too -- both when 
the sun shone and after it started raining some two hours 
after the start of today's protest march
 
Three years ago today, I made my way with a group of friends from Causeway Bay to Central and then from Tsim Sha Tsui to Mongkok, for a good part along streets empty of vehicles, many of which were full of people taking part in pro-democracy protests.  Some members of that group were there that day to observe and never changed their largely detached stance -- but at least one friend and myself got sucked into the Umbrella Movement
 
 
Like this year's July 1st protest rally, this afternoon's march began at Victoria Park's Central Lawn.  Normally grassy and green, the ground was muddy as well as soggy, probably as a result of the rain that had fallen earlier in the day.  Undeterred, thousands of protesters -- many of us dressed in black, since October 1st is not a day of celebration for us -- made their way from there onto paved paths within the park and then paved roads that led us from Causeway Bay through Wan Chai to the space in Admiralty in front of  Civic Square (which remains closed to the public for all of Carrie Lam having hinted soon after she became Hong Kong's fourth Chief Executive that she'd re-open it).
 
Early on in the march, I spotted bookseller-turned-activist Lam Wing Kee in the company of journalist-turned-politician Claudia Mo brandishing a placard with a big red X over the words "Political Prosecution Persecution".  Enroute to Admiralty, I also caught sight of the likes of "Long Hair" Leung Kwok Hung, fellow disqualified lawmaker Lau Siu Lai, Civic Party stalwart Audrey Eu and Democratic Party veteran Emily Lau; all there to show their support for those of their political comrades currently behind bars (including Nathan Law, who had made history in September 2014 as the youngest-ever person to be elected to be a Hong Kong legislator, and the even younger Joshua Wong).
 
In truth though, it's less well known protest participants who I often find myself more in awed by.  In particular, I truly admire and respect the efforts of those who take part despite being wheelchair-bound and those others for whom it's also obvious that physical movement is not all that easy.  And yes, I do find myself thinking: if they can come out to take part in the march, shame on those whose spirit and resolve is so much weaker even while their bodies are so much stronger.
 
After the Occupy phase of the Umbrella Movement came to an end on December 15, 2014, many people became unduly discouraged and concluded that the Umbrella Movement as a whole had failed and ended.  The yellow umbrellas that continue to be brandished at protests like today's show the latter to be a lie.  And, to quote a headline of an opinion piece that appeared today, "Those who think the Umbrella Movement failed need to learn a little history"; to which I also think it apropros to add the famous John Paul Jones quote of "I have not yet begun to fight!".

Friday, September 29, 2017

A scenic hike along the eastern and southern sections of the Chi Ma Wan Peninsula (Photo-essay)

A few years ago, while walking along the section of the Lantau Trail close to Pui O, I was approached by a bunch of college age folks who asked me how far it was to the Chi Ma Wan Peninsula.  Guessing correctly that none of them had a map with them, I took out my Countryside Map for Hong Kong's largest island and showed them where we were as well as where the Chi Ma Wan Peninsula was on it.  In addition, after ascertaining that they were thinking of venturing along the Chi Ma Wan Country Trail, I showed them where it was and got them realizing that it's 18.5 kilometers long -- whereupon they decided to abandon their hiking plans for the day on ths spot!    

Based on how few people I see whenever I've been on this southeastern section of Lantau (be it to hike or take part in beach clean-ups), I'm inclined to conclude that the length of that official trail puts many a hiker off in addition to its out of the way location.  In either case, it's a real pity; not least because this part of Hong Kong really is pretty scenic, and there also being ways to break up the hiking routes so that one doesn't have to go along all 18.5 kilometers of the Chi Ma Wan Country Trail in one go! 

As an example: the section of that trail which passes through an area known as "rock wonder" can be accessed without having to go up the highest points of the peninsula.  Also, the Inter-Islands Ferry between Mui Wo and Cheung Chau makes regular (though not frequent) stops at a pier on Chi Ma Wan.  So if you get your timing right, you can take that ferry back to civilization (as I've done more than once now), the trail head, or both!

Picturesque dwellings at Shap Long Chung Hau village
over on the north-eastern edge of Chi Ma Wan Peninsula

My hiking companion and I followed the signs to the now disused 
correctional institutions but then headed beyond them to get to the section
of the peninsula that's part of Lantau South Country Park

View from the trail of Hei Ling Chau, an island that's home to
three correctional institutions and an addiction treatment center

A rocky section of Chi Ma Wan Peninsula

Further along the same trail, the more populated 
island of Cheung Chau comes into view 

 Natural rock formation or modern art sculpture? ;)

Hike's end that day: the ferry pier near the now disused
Chi Ma Wan Peninsula correctional facilities! :)

Thursday, September 28, 2017

On the third anniversary of the start of the Umbrella Movement

Civic Square in late 2014
 
Still not open to the public in 2017
 
Three years ago today, the Hong Kong police fired 87 cannisters of tear gas into a crowd of peaceful protesters assembled at Admiralty and effectively triggered the start of the Umbrella Movement.  Two days previously, the then-18-year-old Joshua Wong and a number of other pro-democracy activists had scaled the fence that had been erected around a previously open space in front of the East Wing of Hong Kong's Central Government Office Complex to try to reclaim that which had previously been open to the public and, for their troubles, been put under arrest. 
 
Pretty much every time I pass by -- and look through the still existing fence at -- Civic Square, I get to thinking how small that space is relative to the amount of space that consequently was "Occupied" by protesters for 79 days in the latter part of 2014.  I also get to reckoning that if that open space had remained open to the public in September 2014 (the way it had been originally set up to be), quite a bit of trouble could have been averted.
 
Put another way: I honestly believe that much of the anger and negativity that many of the Hong Kongers who ended up taking part in the Occupy (Hong Kong) protests -- that spread beyond Central and Admiralty to Causeway Bay and over Victoria Harbour to the Kowloon Peninsula -- felt with regards to the territory's government and police were the result of their overly strenuous efforts to clamp down on what actually had been non-violent acts of civil disobedience.  Three years on, you'd think that Hong Kong's powers-that-be and their overlords in Beijing would have realized by now that the more they try to push Hong Kongers to not act, the more they'll (re-)act.  But, alas, that's not the case.
 
What may be an even greater tragedy is that a not insignificant number of individuals who didn't dare -- as opposed to just didn't want -- to venture into the Occupy areas to see and hear things for themselves have never realized that the very best of Hong Kong was out there.  To this day, I feel that the Umbrella Movement taught and showed me that there's a tremendous lot of good in Hong Kong; which is why I actually remain hopeful that "Hong Kong, the freest part on Chinese soil with the strongest faith in democracy, can still make a difference", and convinced that there's a lot of life and fight still left in those who may currently feel down but most certainly should not yet be considered out for the count. 

Wednesday, September 27, 2017

Mrs K is a great star vehicle for triple Hong Kong Film Awards Best Actress winner Kara Wai (Film review)

The Hong Kong theatrical poster for this
Malaysia-Hong Kong-Mainland China co-production

Mrs K (Malaysia-Hong Kong-Mainland China, 2016)
-- Ho Yuhang, director and co-scriptwriter (with Chan Wai Keung)
-- Starring: Kara Wai (aka Kara Hui Ying Hung), Simon Yam, Wu Bai, Siow Li Xuan, Faizal Hussein

Being the long time Hong Kong film fan that I am, I first saw -- and was highly impressed by -- the lead actress of Ho Yuhang's Mrs K in late 1970s and early 1980s Shaw Brothers kung fu classics such as My Young Auntie (for which she was honored with her first Best Actress accolade at the Hong Kong Film Awards) and Legendary Weapons of China.  So imagine my surprise after returning to Asia on July 4th, 2003, to find that Kara Hui Ying Hung was looked upon as primarily a TV actress rather than a movie luminary at that point in time; and that when she did occasionally appear in a movie (e.g., Infernal Affairs II (2003) and Crazy N the City (2005)), it was mainly in supporting rather than starring roles.

In 2009, however the actress now more often credited as Kara Wai burst back into the limelight with another Hong Kong Film Award Best Actress-winning performance in At the End of Daybreak, and revealed that she still could be a ferocious action star in Peter Chan Ho Sun's intense Wu Xia two years later.  Now, after garnering a third Hong Kong Film Award Best Actress prize (with last year's Happiness), she's reunited with the Malaysian director of At the End of Daybreak and has an anchoring role in a film that looks to have been tailor-made for this actress who's shown over some three and a half decades that she possesses considerable dramatic and action chops.

Mrs K (Kara Wai) is the wife of a doctor (Taiwanese rock star Wu Bai) and mother of a taekwondo-practicing teenager (Malaysian newcomer Siow Li Xuan) who the movie's audience first sees at home in the kitchen.  Within minutes, however, the lady shows that she's not one to be trifled with when she comfortably deals with two young men whose gambling debts have got them attempting their first ever robbery.  And so easily did she turn the tables on those two fellows that you just know that she's got the kind of troubled past that will threaten to haunt her at some point.  

One afternoon, while the happy family are hosting a barbecue at their home, a Macanese man (Tony Lau Wing) claiming to be an old friend of Mrs K turns up.  A sleazy ex-cop seeking to blackmail her (with his knowledge of her participation in a Macao casino heist years ago), he doesn't realize that he's the hunted rather than hunter, and unwittingly leads one very angry, vengeful individual (Simon Yam) and his dangerous accomplice (Faizal Hussein) to the woman who years ago had very nearly killed him but, unfortunately for her -- and, especially, her three accomplices (directors Fruit Chan, Kirk Wong and Dain Iskandar Said) -- didn't.

With a story like that, it's pretty much a given that Mrs K will possess a number of action scenes, many of which have its titular character in the thick of it.  Especially when one considers that Kara Wai is now 57 years of age (and didn't have a stunt double for this film), the actress -- who looks to be in far better physical shape than many people 10 or even 15 years younger than her -- acquits herself tremendously well indeed; with credit also being due to action choreographer Adam Chan for staging fight (and chase) sequences that come across as realistic as well as gripping.

At the same time though, those expecting an all-out actioner need to realize that Ho Yuhang is far more of an arthouse drama director than action movie helmer.  So it is only to be expected that Mrs K will have a more languid pacing than might be expected along with quiet dramatic moments, dialogue-rich scenes and stylistic flights of fancy (some of which work better than others).  

Put another way: Mrs K does not serve up a straight-out adrenaline rush but, then, I sincerely doubt that it was meant to.  What it definitely does, however, is be a great star vehicle for Kara Wai.  When viewing the film, you'll be able to feel how much respect Ho Yuhang has for her -- and, through such as his general casting, how much of a love of Hong Kong movies (of yore) this Malaysian also has.

My rating for the film: 7.0 

Tuesday, September 26, 2017

Thrill rides, animal attractions, and misbehaving Mainlanders at Ocean Park

A hair-raising rollercoaster at Ocean Park :b
 
 Surrounded by water in which sharks swim! :o

Among the perks of being a Hong Kong Identity Card holder is your being able to go to Ocean Park for free on your birthday.  And ever since I read about this some time back, I'd been meaning to take advantage of this offer -- and finally did so yesterday afternoon, the first time I've ever been to this Hong Kong theme park on my own (rather than along with family members or at least one friend, like had previously been the case)!
 
Thanks to the MTR's South Island Line which opened late last year, getting to Ocean Park is far more of a breeze now than before; with the Ocean Park MTR station being literally just a few minutes' walk away from the park's entrance.  Indeed, it was a greater hassle to travel between the Lowland and Highland sections of Ocean Park since: my ride on the Ocean Express train from what's also known as the Waterfront to the Summit involved spending several minutes in a claustrophically loud and crowded space (full of seriously uncouth Mainland Chinese tourists); and my cable car ride from one side of Nam Long Shan (Brick Hill) to another was preceded by a 25 minute wait in line for the privilege.
 
On a previous visit to Ocean Park, I had discovered that roller coasters appear to be far less popular among Hong Kongers and Mainland Chinese folks (the latter of whom make up by far the largest percentage of visitors to this Hong Kong amusement park) than among American and British amusement park patrons.  Consequently, I made a beeline for the two Ocean Park roller coaster rides I had yet to go on and which turned out to be located close to each other. 
 
The first of these -- the Arctic Blast (located in the Polar Adventure part of the park) -- proved to be the tamest of the four Ocean Park roller coasters I've now been on but acted as a good warm-up ride for that which is even wilder than the older The Dragon (which features a couple of 360 degree rotations) as well as the Mine Train (whose location on the edge of the hill adds to the thrills as well and stunning visuals) which I've ridden a few times before.  Located on "Thrill Mountain", the Hair Raiser is Hong Kong's first floor-less rollercoaster and also its fastest (with speeds reaching 88 kilometers at hour at times) -- and capable of giving one quite the adrenaline rush!
 
At various points of the summer's day, I tried out different ways of cooling down.  Visits to the South Pole Spectacular (where penguins galore can be found), Arctic Fox Den (whose denizens are really adorable looking) and North Pole Encounter (whose walruses and seals got me recalling the aquarium I visited in Tromso, Norway, a couple of years ago) proved pretty pleasant.  Unfortunately, that could not be said of my experiences at The Rapids, where encounters with seriously ill-mannered Mainland Chinese tourists who seem to think it perfectly okay to push, shove, cut queues, etcetera, got me all hot and bothered. 
 
As sad or bad as it may sound, I came away from my Ocean Park experience feeling far more positive about the Chinese pandas, Sichuan golden snubbed-nose monkeys, Chinese sturgeons and even the oceanic predators at Shark Mystique attraction than the Mainland Chinese visitors to the amusement park.  In all honesty, if I had to deal with them regularly, I think I'd end up having a major meltdown at the very least, and a nervous breakdown that'd see me running amok at worst!  And truly, I feel for those Ocean Park frontline staffers who have to do so. 
 
More than incidentally: while I was on the Ocean Express, I saw the train driver having the kind of look on his face that left me filled with certainty that he wished he was far away from that noisy, enclosed space which he was in with hundreds of visitors, the vast majority of whom are on the boorish side and from north of the Hong Kong-Mainland China border.  I wonder how long are the poor soul's shifts and have to think that he must surely be allowed a number of breaks.  Otherwise, he and those other with his job surely can't last long in that post without going insane.  And as it is, there seems little doubt that familiarity with their Mainland Chinese neighbors is bringing contempt, not understanding nor fellow feeling, in their case. 

Sunday, September 24, 2017

A day out at Beertopia 2017

Hong Kong's biggest beer festival takes place in 
a prime Central location

A good time was had there by lots of people!

And yes, I was still there after the sun went down
and moon appeared in the sky! ;)

After missing out on Asia's biggest craft beer festival last year (because I was out of town when it took place), I made sure to find out when Beertopia would be taking place this year.  And as far back as July, I had secured an early bird ticket for the second day of this year's edition -- which I proceeded to put to good use yesterday.

In statistical terms: I was at the beer fest from around 12.30pm to 7.30pm, during which I tried 10 different beers (more if you count the sample sips I took from friends' cups!) from eight different breweries and 1 elderflower cider.  Also, thanks in parts to a friend who likes beer but has a really low alcohol tolerance level, I came by extra drinks coupons that I ended up using on two bottles of beer I opted to take home along with a complimentary can of a Weisse beer from Lithuania (rather than drain them all over at the festival ground)!

This year's fest featured over 500 beers from 96 different breweries.  Even so, I got the feeling that the 2017 edition was smaller in size than 2014 and 2015's.  And I think it says something that, whereas in previous years, I "discovered" great beers that I hadn't previously known about, the beers I liked the most this time around were old favorites that I've had before. 

Something else that was quite apparent to me was that this year's Beertopia had a different atmosphere from the ones I previously attended.  In particular, I felt that whereas the 2014 edition had been beer geek heaven, thanks in large part to a number of the brewers (including personal favorites over at Kagua and Boxing Cat) being present, and eminently available to talk to and even hang out with for a time, while this one was attended by people primarily out there to have a good time.

Not that there's anything necessarily wrong with that, of course.  But it speaks to a different emphasis (which includes providing space for smoking shisha) and a different type of crowd from previously, to my mind (as can be seen in there being a lot more people smoking cigarettes at the (outdoor) venue than I can recall for previous years and my smelling the whiff of marijuana about the place too). 

On the beer front: there was a lot more Hong Kong brewed products about the place too.  In theory, this should be a good thing -- as one would expect local microbrews to be fresher than those shipped from elsewhere, often across oceans and from thousands of miles away.  Unfortunately, I still haven't found a Hong Kong brewed beer that I truly love the way I do, say, California's North Coast Old Rasputin Imperial Stout, New Jersey's Flying Fish XPA, and Japan's Minoh Beer's W-IPA and stout.

Still, I have continued trying out Hong Kong brewed beers at such as Beertopia.  And this time around, the beers from local breweries (albeit ones that have partnered with foreign ones) that I tried were from HK Yau (brewed in Hong Kong with input from Brooklyn Brewery and Carlsberg!), Heroes Beer, and Japanese Hitachino Nest Beer's Fotan brewery.    

At the end of the day though, my favorite of the beers that I tried at this year's Beertopia -- all of them on draft, I'm happy to say! -- was Brooklyn Brewery's East IPA.  It may have travelled thousands of miles to get over here but its taste didn't seem to have been negatively affected from having done so.  (By the way, this opinion is from someone who has drank brews from this brewery over in the Big Apple as well as over here in Hong Kong! :b)

Friday, September 22, 2017

Death in Ancient Egypt and over at the Hong Kong Science Museum

One of six mummies on (temporary) display at
 
What looks like a stained striped t-shirt but really is not!
 
Some 200 Ancient Egyptian artifacts on (temporary) loan
from the British Museum here in Hong Kong
 
Until I went to the Hong Kong Science Museum earlier this week to check out its Eternal Life: Exploring Ancient Egypt special exhibition (which runs through to the 18th of next month), I had only ever been inside its lecture hall (which hosts Hong Kong International Film Festival screenings  and also is a venue for a number of other special film screenings) and public toilet (usually before or after a film screening at its lecture hall!).  One reason is because descriptions of its exhibitions tend to make them sound more geared for children than adults.  
 
In addition, this particular museological establishment is one of the most popular in Hong Kong, so my vision of it includes crowded, noisy exhibition halls.  But whereas the areas of the museum where the temporary special exhibition about death and life in Ancient Egypt had been installed were indeed full of busy on the afternoon that I visited it, I guess I can at least count myself fortunate that the crowd actually wasn't as full of chatty and loud individuals as it could have been (especially given the young age of some of its visitors)!
 
Given the superstitious fears that many Hong Kongers have, I was rather surprised that this particular exhibition appears to be so well attended (with a local friend who had been to see it earlier than me having described the exhibition area as being "as crowded as Mongkok")!  Actually, I also was pretty taken aback to find that this particular exhibition that's jointly presented and organized by the British Museum and the Hong Kong Science Museum is an official event commemorating the 20th anniversary of Hong Kong's Handover to China by the British.
 
To be sure, it's a bumper exhibition alright.  But let's face it: even with its title emphasizing life, it really is about death -- with the visitors not only being surrounded while in the display areas by artifacts associated with people who are very much dead but also were found in their tombs and such!  Put another way: it does seem much less a celebration of life per se than an examination of how people (who lived thousands of year ago as well as thousands of miles away) dealt with death and the dead.  
 
Furthermore, among the artefacts -- and, indeed, the exhibition's highlighted items -- are six mummies of deceased individuals who may have died as well as lived between 3,000 and 1,800 years ago but still are as human as you and I.  And if one somehow managed to be unaware that this was indeed the case, numerous digital visualizations appear on various screens in the exhibition areas of those mummies' skeletons and such, complete with identified pathological conditions.
 
The point about our common humanity particularly struck home when I found myself gazing at a piece of clothing that looked like a stained striped t-shirt.  It turns out that it's a striped tunic from the Coptic Period and more than a 1,000 years old.  But I really could very easily imagine it being worn by a  young boy (or girl) living today! 
 
As someone who has long been interested in Ancient Egypt, I figured I'd find the Eternal Life: Exploring Ancient Egypt exhibition to be worth the HK$30 (~US$3.84) admission fee (despite it being HK$10 (~US$1.28) more than the usual Hong Kong Science Museum entry fee).  What I hadn't banked on was that I'd actually end up spending close to three hours at the museum, some of whose permanent displays I also got lured into checking out!  Put another way: I continue to think that Hong Kong museums are a real bargain price-wise since they often do offer up pretty good museum-going experiences. :)