Sunday, January 14, 2024

The 500 (actually "just" 499 now!) Rakans of Morioka's Ho-onji (Photo-essay)

Did you know that Morioka's on the New York Times' "52 Places To Go in 2023" list? I only learnt about it after making my hotel bookings for my October 2023 Japan trip -- and was actually a little horrified to hear this as I feared that this would mean that the prefectural capital of Iwate would be swarming with tourists.  But the only time I saw noticeably non-Japanese tourists in the city was over in the ruined castle grounds on my first day in Morioka -- a very loud Thai group, for the record -- and a couple of forlorn looking Americans looking for a place to shelter from the rain, like me, on my first evening in the city (I guess it's a city but it feels more like a small town by Hong Kong standards).  
 
And when I went over to that which I think is the most impressive of Morioka's attractions/sights, my experience was definitely accentuated by my being the only visitor to it!  I guess it "helps" that the 500 Rakans (Buddha's disciples) of Ho-onji aren't mentioned in the Morioka section of many Japan guide books. (One of the books I had listed just two actual sites in Morioka to check out that were not shops or restaurants!) But trust me when they are quite the sight -- and what an experience to be in a (large) room with them and other wooden carvings/sculptures and no one else! 
 
At the risk of blasphemy, I must say that it can make for quite an eerie experience -- but also a very cool one. And if one is able to resist running out screaming with fear after a few seconds and look closely at the Rakans (or, rather, the carvings of them), it really is very impressive how each and every one of them is distinct in look and, also, perceived personality! ;b
 
Not a Rakan (or Arhat) but Puppet Ponyo pointing at the
awesome gate of Ho-onji that gave me a clue that
this was a temple with some impressive sights within ;b 
 
Seriously, the carvings on the gate (including of this dragon
and another mythical creature) were pretty awesome!
 
Assorted statuary line the corridor between the main building
of the temple and that which is home to the  500 Rakans carved
between 1731 and 1735 in Kyoto by nine Buddhist masters
 
It takes the eye a few seconds to get used to the darkness
inside the hall of the 500 Rakans (and here's letting you
know that it also is eerily quiet in there!)
 
As your eye adjusts though, you'll notice the Rakans -- 
and how each and everyone of the 499 (one's not survived 
the centuries!) really does look distinct!
 
Look closely, and you'll see that the Rakans don't all have the
same clothing style; and that some have beards while others
are beardless, and some are bald but others are not, etc.!
 
They're also not also posed the same way -- and there are
a few that look like they're about to jump off the shelves! :D
 
All in all, I'm pretty proud of myself for staying as long as I
did in that hall -- and, in fact, making two complete circuits
of it to check out the Rakans as carefully as I did... before leaving,
and breathing a sigh of relief once I got outdoors into the sunlight! ;b

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