Politics and beer in Hong Kong

Lan Kwai Fong's days as Hong Kong's 

Party Central look to be behind it...

To be sure, stereotypical party-goer types can be found among

the crowd at the Lan Kwai Fong Beer & Music Festival... 

But in the main, the crowd and mood is mellower 

these days than previously :)

Back in the fall of 2014, when sections of Hong Kong were being Occupied, I accepted the invitation of a friend to go to a Hong Kong celebration of Oktoberfest.  Even while I enjoyed my friend's company as well as the food and drinks on offer at the event, part of me felt guilty for being at it rather than out in "Occupied" space.  

To make me feel better, my friend agreed to head over with me to the protest areas at Central and Admiralty after we had our dinner.  There we found a lot more people that evening than had been the case at the Oktoberfest event; prompting my friend to ask me whether this made me happy -- to which I replied with an emphatic "Yes!"

Those memories came back to me last night as the route for the candlelight march in memory of Liu Xiaobo took participants (including myself) close to Lan Kwai Fong, where I knew this year's beer and music festival was going on.  And I got to thinking about them once more when I headed over this afternoon to what used to be a crazy party area that I avoided like the plague for years but now has become a mellower place that's home to my favorite bar in Hong Kong and an annual beer and music festival which I had fun chillin' out at last year.   

After three days and nights of high emotion (and political activism), I felt a need to decompress.  In view of bad weather being predicted for today and also my having walked over 19,000 steps yesterday, I figured that a hike wouldn't actually be the answer this time around to my de-stressing needs.  And although part of me wanted to just stay at home and maybe even lie in bed all day, I decided that it would actually be psychologically healthier for me to venture out to enjoy good company -- and also some alcoholic beverages -- at this year's Lan Kwai Fong Beer & Music Festival.

As it so happened, I spent pretty much all of my time at the fest at just one stall: that operated by Sake Bar Ginn!  Ideally, in a setting and event like this, I'd have been drinking ice cold Kirin Ichiban beer topped with frozen beer foam.  In its absence, I made do by alternating drinks of Kirin Ichinan beer with frozen sake mojitos -- and found it to be a cooling combination that also successfully got me pretty relaxed over the course of the afternoon!

Something else that helped put me in a good mood was that there appeared to be fewer people at this event than had been at yesterday's candlelight march!  For one thing, I don't like crowds as a rule; and at events and venues where alcohol is in the mix, my sense is that the mood tends to be more mellow and pleasant when there's ample space to move, breathe, and for sound to be able to travel without people needing to shout.  

For another, it confirms that the turnout at yesterday's candlelight march was actually really respectable.  Indeed, I'd go so far as to say that it was pretty impressive; with at least one respected news outlet having underlined its importance by noting that last night's march was the only -- not just most -- large-scale commemorative event for Liu Xiaobo on Chinese soil and the fact of it having taken place actually sends a powerful message to Beijing that the rulers there may not want to hear but can't help seeing. 

Hong Kong's candlelight march in memory of Liu Xiaobo

I lit a candle for Liu Xiaobo at Chater Garden this evening

 

In the company of thousands of others, I walked candle in hand 

from Chater Garden to the China Liason Office

 

It may not be an eternal flame but it's been

captured for posterity by my camera

 

Earlier today came news that the ashes of the late Liu Xiaobo were scattered at sea in a move widely seen as the Chinese government seeking to deny those who loved and admired him a place of pilgrimage.  For many people, it further confirmed the Communist Chinese regime's heartlessness and I totally would not be surprised if it angered people and gave a number of Hong Kongers (further) motivation to turn up for this evening's candlelight march in memory of the 2010 Nobel Peace Prize winner. 

 

Arriving at Chater Garden half an hour before the march got going, I was surprised to see this space get filled to the brim by the time the assembled crowd began moving out along a designated route that would take us from Central through to Sheung Wan all the way to the China Liason Office in Sai Ying Pun.  And while I normally would be able to complete that walk in less than an hour, the fact that I was walking along with thousands of others -- and consequently subject to crowd and traffic control by the police that ensured that there'd be lots of stops and starts along the way -- made it so that I didn't get to the (temporary) memorial space set up for Liu Xiaobo in front of the China Liason Office until close to three hours after I began my journey.

 

So long did the candlelight march take that my candle got way too short and its light burned out just before I rounded the final corner to the march's designated end point.  Also, I have to admit that my candle's flame was snuffed out two times before then; no thanks to the strong breezes that occasionally blew our way but were no way the worst bits of weather that we had to deal with -- instead, that'd be the rain that I initially dismissed as mere showers before it got to absolutely pelting down as my group of marchers stood waiting to pay our respects before we concluded our march.

 

In retrospect, I find it symbolic that the candle I lit for Liu Xiaobo was not able, like him, to fully complete its planned journey while alive -- but, hopefully, still may be able to achieve its goal with the help of another.  As for the downpours this evening: I see the rain as the tears shed by heaven for a highly principled individual who had the misfortune of living under a regime whose rulers felt so threatened by his ideas that they decided to view him as a criminal rather than patriot.  

 

In their treatment of Liu Xiaobo (and also his wife, Liu Xia), the Communist Chinese government have shown how heartless and despicable it is.  Shame on it!  And may Hong Kongers keep on opposing and resisting its attempts -- be it using soft power, what are effectively monetary bribes or menacing intimidation -- to turn Hong Kong into just another Chinese city, where such as the freedom to protest and the freedom to be critical of the government (in an effort to make it better) is no longer allowed.

Disappointment in Hong Kong one day after tragedy struck in Mainland China

A space to mourn Liu Xiaobo's premature death set up 

in front of the China Liason Office in Hong Kong

A rally for four disqualified Hong Kong legislators

in front of "Civic Square" this evening 

This afternoon, I went to the China Liason Office in Hong Kong to pay tribute to the late Liu Xiaobo.  Or, rather, I went to the area set up in front of the Liason Office for mourners that has been bedecked with white flowers and signs urging people to remember the Nobel Peace Prize winning pro-democracy activist and demanding his widow, Liu Xia's freedom, and where a condolence book also is available for people to sign.

Within hours of my having gone over to pay my respects to a man who paid a terrible price for loving his country and wanting better for it, a Hong Kong judge paved the way for the disqualification of four local lawmakers upon ruling that they had failed to sincerely take the oath of office.  This verdict comes in the wake of the same judge having upheld the disqualification of two other Legislative Councillors on the basis of their also having failed to take the oath of office sincerely, and means that the balance of power in Hong Kong's legislative assembly has disastrously shifted to the pro-Beijing camp.   

Not surprisingly, a rally was organized this evening to protest the decision and also to show support to disqualified lawmakers "Long Hair" Leung Kwok Hung, Nathan Law, Law Siu Lai and Edward Yiu.  With many of its speakers being the same ones who also had spoken at another rally this past December, I couldn't help reflecting sadly on how the mood has changed.

Then, there was jubilance in the air since that event at Chater Garden had come in the wake of Leung Chun Ying's announcement that he'd not be seeking re-election as Hong Kong's Chief Executive.  This time around, at the rally in front of the still closed 1,000-square-meter forecourt to the Central Government Offices at Admiralty popularly known as Civic Square, there were notes of defiance struck but along with Liu Xiaobo's death casting a shadow on things was a sense among the assembled crowd that the battle for democracy for Hong Kong is not going to be won anytime soon.

This is not to say, however, that people in Hong Kong have decided to give up the fight.  Especially considering that tonight's event was effectively a one and half hour press conference and had been organized and announced at pretty short notice, the number of people who turned up was surprisingly high.  

One of the folks who turned up to voice their disappointment and unhappiness at what's happened today in Hong Kong was quoted in a Hong Kong Free Press report as follows: "There is no point in protesting when an oppressive government won't listen to you. But I still felt that coming here, contributing to the headcount, was better than staying at home and typing up a status on Facebook. At least I was here."  To which, I'd say, "Hear, hear -- and that's the (Hong Kong) spirit", at least to the latter part of that statement!

RIP, Liu Xiaobo -- and free Liu Xia!

A great man died today.  Rest in peace, Liu Xiaobo.  And we won't forget you, Liu Xia!  Among other things, it's not something her husband would have wanted.  Remember what he said about his beloved: "Even if I were crushed into powder, I would still use my ashes to embrace you." 

Dealer/Healer serves up a seemingly tall tale that's actually rooted in reality (film review)

Detail from an artwork located in Kowloon Walled City Park

highlighting the high density of the walled city once located there

Dealer/Healer (Hong Kong-Mainland China, 2017)

- Lawrence Lau (AKA Lawrence Ah Mon), director

- Starring: Lau Ching Wan, Louis Koo, Gordon Lam Ka Tung, Jiang Yiyan, Max Zhang Jin

While I was away in Malaysia and Indonesia this past May, a Hong Kong movie I first heard about more than a year ago and have been eager to check out opened in Hong Kong cinemas.  Eager to view it upon my return to the Big Lychee a fortnight or so later, I was rather perturbed to see that screenings of it had already been gone done to one a day at just a handful of theaters. 

We're talking, after all, of a dramatic offering helmed by a two-time Hong Kong Film Awards Best Director nominee and starring a two-time Hong Kong Film Awards Best Actor winner.  And, actually, post viewing it, I'm also surprised that Dealer/Healer did not feature in this year's Hong Kong International Film Festival; this since I truly do feel that it is a good deal better in quality as well as possesses a more compelling narrative than 2017 HKIFF entrants The Sleep Curse and Love Off the Cuff. 

Telling the story of a drug dealer turned drug rehab worker (who also takes to mediating between rival Triad factions, and underworld figures and the police on the side), Dealer/Healer's tale may seem like a unbelievably tall one if not for it being based on the biography of its executive producer.  Set in the 1970s and 1980s, the film focuses on a couple of eventful decades in the life of Peter Chan Shun Chi -- or, as he's referred to in the movie, Chen Hua. 

Portrayed for the most part by Lau Ching Wan, this product of the Tsz Wan Shan public estates is shown developing from being a playground terror (who headed a group that called themselves the 13 Warlocks of Tsz Wan Shan) into a mid-level gangster whose turf extended to the Kowloon Walled City, but then was undone both by his trying to help out two long-time buddies Bullhorn (played by Gordon Lam Ka Tung) and Cat (essayed by Max Zhang Jin) get some of the drug-dealing business controlled by his bosses and having become addicted to the narcotics he would have done better to just sell.

In retrospect though, his getting found out and slapped into prison for five years actually turned out to be the making of Chen Hua rather than his undoing.  Genuinely reformed while behind bars, he emerged from the correctional facility vowing to not only stay clean but also help others to kick the habit.  Against the odds, he also looks to reconnect with the love of his life (played by Jiang Yiyan) -- and befriends his former enemy, a crooked cop turned powerful drug lord (portrayed by Louis Koo).

Also rather improbable on the face of it is what director Lawrence Lau and co managed to accomplish throughout Dealer/Healer: that is, transport this film's viewers back in time by way of surprisingly detailed and authentic-looking period visuals, and also into parts of Hong Kong (notably the Kowloon Walled City) which actually are no more.  Ironically, however, these aesthetic accomplishments may actually have negatively affected the movie's appeal: because, let's face it, the 1970s and 1980s were pretty stylistically awful decades!

Another paradox laid bear is that whereas it's gratifying to learn about a bad guy genuinely turning into a good one, people who behave badly often are more colorfully and interestingly portrayed in movies than the virtuous.  Put another way: the scenes of Dealer/Healer featuring the pre-reformed protagonist were a good deal more exciting and interesting than those taking place after he found God and got redemption.  Consequently -- and I realize its makers (and executive producer, in particular) may not be happy to hear it -- I honestly felt that this movie actually worked quite a bit better as an entertaining crime drama than as a morality tale about a man whose story genuinely is admirable! 

My rating for this film: 7.5

Tai Po's atmospheric Man Mo Temple looks like the kind of place seen in many a Hong Kong movie

The Man Mo Temple in Tai Po

 ...is one of the most incense-filled temples I know in Hong Kong

...and also is home to one of the most impressive 

Tai Sui (60 Year Cycle Gods) displays I've seen around

For a good part of the time that I've lived and worked in Hong Kong, I had to regularly commute between the part of the Big Lychee where I resided to Tai Po.  Since that would take up at least two hours of each day that I did this, I'm sure people can understand when I say that I'm so very glad that those days are now behind me.

At the same time though, this doesn't mean that I've been giving Tai Po a miss since!  For among other things, Tai Po Market MTR station is where the avid hiker can catch buses or -- more often, actaully -- green minibuses to (or from) a number of trail heads.  Also, it's where I get the green mini-bus to Fung Yuen Butterfly Reserve.  In addition, nice bike paths can be found in the vicinity of Tai Po that can take one all the way up to Tai Mei Tuk and the Plover Cove Reservoir if one's so inclined or, alternatively, down south to Sha Tin, Tai Wai and Wu Kai Sha.   

In addition, there are area culinary attractions such as Yat Lok's hard-to-resist roast goose (which, ironically, I very rarely got to visit during my lunch breaks when I worked in Tai Po because my office was located too far away from the town center where the eatery is located).  And I've even indulged the inner train spotter in me and paid a visit to the Hong Kong Railway Museum housed in the old Tai Po Market Railway Station that's within easy walking distance from the present one. 

As for Tai Po's markets: these days, there's more than one of them.  I wouldn't go all the way up to Tai Po from, say, Hong Kong Island just for them.  But when coupled with, say, a visit to Fung Yuen, the Hong Kong Railway Station or Yat Lok, I actually think it's worth the trip -- and this especially when you also throw in a visit to the Man Mo Temple in Tai Po located in the vicinity of Tai Po's oldest and most picturesque market, and also a stone's throw away from the Hong Kong Railway Museum.

Built in 1891, around the same time as the nearby market established by a group of area villagers, this particular Man Mo Temple may not be as old as the more famous one over on Hollywood Road -- but I find it a good deal more atmospheric as a result of there being fewer tourists milling about the place and its location close to a genuine working market frequented and patronized by local folk.  And like the far more well known temple dedicated to the gods of war and literature over on Hong Kong Island, it's got its share of faithful devotees -- as can be seen by the numerous offerings, including coiled joss sticks, to be found within it.

As I often tell people: because I came to love Hong Kong by way of my love of Hong Kong cinema, I often find myself viewing Hong Kong not only through rose-colored lens but also in terms of X or Y place looking like it was like a movie set.  In the case of Tai Po's Man Mo Temple: I don't know whether filming ever took place within or around it but I so would not be surprised -- because, truly, my first thought when I saw it was that this place looked like it had popped out of a Hong Kong movie! ;b

Hong Kong's shop cats

A regal looking Hong Kong shop cat

 

Much loved members of this elite group of felines?

 

My recent Malaysia-Indonesia trip series of blog posts finally came to a halt last Thursday -- but it doesn't mean I'm quite done mentioning my German friend (who was my travel companion for much of that time) just yet!  A case in point: these days, pretty much whenever I see Japanese Fortune Cats (Maneki Neko) on sale in a store, I think of her: because on one of her trips back to Hong Kong, she was tasked by two of her German friends to get them Maneki Neko.  

 

When she asked me where she could go about purchasing one, I had to confess to having had no idea where to do so.  One reason why is that it's not at all often that I've bought a Maneki Neko for myself.  And when I've done so, it's been in in their country of origin rather than Hong Kong!  

 

Almost inevitably, I've since got to noticing Japanese Fortune Cats being sold in a variety of stores here in the Big Lychee.  At the same time though, I'd maintain that one is more likely to come across real life cats in Hong Kong shops than Maneki Neko available for sale or placed by the store owners to attract luck, wealth and/or customers!      

 

Their official role may be that of mouse-catchers rather than good luck charms or store mascots but the way they loll about and stride around the places where they are to be found, and the affection they generate, makes many a Hong Kong shop cat's status come across as significantly more elevated than many of the human staff!  In recent years, a number of them have gained prominence by way of such as a popular photobook entitled -- what else? -- Hong Kong Shop Cats; and until the newspaper shop where he hung out closed down last year, many a cat-lover would make pilgrimages to the East Tsim Sha Tsui store to catch a glimpse of the famous British shorthair known as Brother Cream.   

 

Although my love for a certain Hello Kitty is considerably greater than for any live feline, I must admit to not being immune to the latter's allure.  And yes, I too have been known to stop in my tracks upon glimpsing a particular striking looking Hong Kong shop cat.  Often times, it's to admire a particularly magnificent example of this category of animal.  But there also was the time that I did a double take upon realizing that one of those (admittedly distant) cousins to the likes of lions, panthers and jaguars had been fitted out in an outfit festooned with kawaii heart patterns! ;D